A while ago, I spent the day with Jenny Dayco, a Los Angeles jewelry designer who is known for her bold statement pieces. She kindly notified me of a local clothing brand that offered a wide range of sizes, including petite-friendly styles. I was able to speak with the designer of this brand, Deborah Viereck, to learn a bit more about her clothing line, Viereck.
Deborah Viereck is an independent clothing designer who started out creating custom costumes for musical artists such as Gwen Stefani and Marilyn Manson. In the recent years, she has expanded her ready-to-wear collection, Viereck, to several boutiques throughout California and a few other states. Viereck features simple and effortless garments that can easily transition from day to night.
How did you get started into clothing design and were you always interested in fashion?
Growing up I was always creative, making stuff out of fabrics around the house but I wasn’t one of those people who had a dress form when they were five or anything. I went to Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising (FIDM) for a year and did a line called SAGE, where I learned about production and a lot of aspects of the business.
What inspires you and what is your creative process?
A general silhouette. I’m always looking for shapes…an interesting new shape, that’s really impressive. I also look at magazines, fashion blogs, and boutiques since everyone puts things together differently. Then, I sketch. I divide a piece of paper into a grid of 24 rectangles, draw a new silhouette in each space and write little notes, and staple little fabric swatches. Afterwards, I make the pattern and create a prototype.
Do you look at trends and what trends do you see for this spring?
I do pay attention to trends in the design process. I avoid fad-like trends to keep my designs classic with a twist, so it stays timeless. I know stores want a lot of color for spring. Items that are sexy, fitted, and body-conscious are also important. With the current economy, people want to buy a piece that’s flattering, sexy, fashionable, classic yet edgy, and interesting. They want their purchase to have all those qualities and people analyze their selection more than ever before.
Snoden Dress
Describe a typical day.
On a typical day, I get up around 4 AM, get ready and I do some internet stuff…checking emails, style blogs, this and that. At 6 AM, I drive to work and it’s always different. We might be in a design phase or a production phase to prepare patterns. I’m pretty involved in production itself and sometimes I get stuck doing a million other things and the whole day can go by and I haven’t touched anything related to design. The company is at the point where we’re small so I have to do so many things.
What do you see for the future of your brand?
I see the company and the brand getting really big and it’s a gradual growth at a perfect pace. I’m excited about our recent Fred Segal order. They pre-ordered many different designs and I’ve always considered that store to be a trend-setter because other buyers go there. We expanded into the second capsule of the brand, V for Viereck. We are continuing to expand our web presence, probably starting with logo tees. I’m also starting to think of a pop-up shop.
How is the capsule collection V for Viereck different from the main line?
The new line, V for Viereck is so fun and animated. I think Gwen Stefani has a subtle influence on it. The collection reminds me of Gwen and Katy Perry, girly and pretty. The capsule collection won’t have silk in it to make it more affordable, with dresses priced around $100. The main line is more expensive with lots of silk items and the prices are still reasonable, it rarely retails above $200.
Joubelier Dress
What are some essential pieces that every woman should have in their closet?
Every woman should have items that are comfortable and make them look good no matter the situation, even if it’s sweats. They should have a slightly sheer loose tunic that can be layered with a camisole. It’s comfortable, washable…it’s good. Also a good jersey wrap dress travels well so you don’t have to iron it. You want pieces that look good from morning to night, without excessive stretching or wrinkles.
What are your signature items? Best-sellers?
The jersey wrap pieces with a simple construction are very popular. There’s the Glock wrap and the Hoodwin dress…they’re basic pieces that wrap. It’s always in season and it sells very well. In the silk, the Hot Sake dress is cool because it fits so many bodies and can be styled in many different ways. It’s surprising.
Hot Sake Dress
How long does it take to go from the sketch to finished product?
It’s getting quicker and quicker…a day or less. Sometimes, it’s really quick because I’ll come up with an idea based on patterns we already have. If we adjust a pattern in a certain way, it looks totally new and different but the technical parts are already there. The whole process can be difficult and hard, but over time, it gets easier.
With fashion, they put collections out very early before the seasons begin. What is the reason for it?
It gives buyers to order in advance, especially with bigger companies. I want to ship quick, but it’s weird having all this product sitting around for future shipments. The stores want to see collections in advance so they have time to plan. Though recently, a lot of stores are ordering closer to the season. If you want to be part of the collections, need to finish early. Now, I’m working on fall and it should be done soon since New York Fashion Week and the Las Vegas show is in March.
Glock Wrap
Describe a Viereck customer, what is she like?
The Viereck customer wants a unique look and appreciates quality, comfort, and above all, an awesome fit. I’ve recently added the V by Viereck capsule, which is lower-priced. The Viereck customer is a person who doesn’t have a lot of time to shop and wants to grab something unique off the rack, try it on, and know that it’s the right piece for her.
You mentioned that you have a wide range of sizes, what is the reasoning behind that?
I have a lot of sizes for women who aren’t the typical sample size. Most people aren’t built like those standards. I want to be there for those who find shopping a challenge. The tiny girl and the larger customer really need me. I try to make items that fit a lot of different body types. Smaller people like to wear more form fitting pieces because if it’s big and baggy, they get lost in it. So I have some items that come in XXS. There’s a draped tunic that bigger people love to wear and it’s surprising how many people love that loose, slouchy style. I design for the people that aren’t that exact sample size because the market for those people are not common. So, they end up more loyal and they really appreciate what I do.
Hoodwin Dress
Is there anything you would like to add to the interview?
Be conscientious when you’re buying clothes like any other product. Always think when you’re shopping to make smart decisions…in this economy, it’s important. Buy clothes at independently owned stores as opposed to the department stores. The world gets boring when everything is a big chain.
Do you think local products are more diverse or unique?
You’re helping the uniqueness grow and if you frequent a local place. The local boutique or store will have a larger budget for next season so they can get more interesting things thats’s creative and different. If you shop at the local stores, they won’t get swallowed up by the big stores that seem repetitive, with the same things every season. I sell to smaller stores and develop the brand first and eventually go into the bigger stores once it’s thoroughly established to keep the fashion signature and the vision intact.
To find out more about Deborah Viereck and the Viereck clothing collection, go to: http://deborahviereck.com
{ 6 comments… read them below or add one }
Cool outfits! Other than their stores listed on their website, are the clothes carried anywhere else, ie. other stores?
I know they are constantly expanding, but I think the current store list on their site is pretty accurate. I’m hoping they start a online store because Viereck has such great items! =)
This was a really fascinating interview. I love learning about the industry, and her description of the design process was interesting to read. I also really love her philosophy about buying in small shops and avoiding the big chain stores. I hate to see box stores open up and destroy local businesses.
The dresses are beautiful and her designs really are classic and timeless while still being modern and edgy.
Thanks for this interview, Jess. This was my favorite one so far.
The “Hot Sake” dress is AMAZING.
I love the Snoden and Joubelier dresses! I’m also fascinated by your features on designers not everyone may be familiar with – it’s always a good read
@Kerry: I really try to feature designers that have a great philosophy behind their collections and they really love what they do!
@Shannon: I agree, the dress looks very luxe and chic.
@SewPetiteGal: Thanks! It’s easy to find all the big name stores but to find those really unique ones are way more satisfying. Plus, after a while, you tend to see where the bigger stores get some of their inspiration from! =)
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